I have spent 20+ years trying
to promote the Yakima Valley AVA. I gave up and petitioned the TTB to form the
Rattlesnake Hills AVA.
I remember the olden days
before the Rattlesnake Hills when Ste. Michelle bought most of its grapes from
the Yakima Valley, but labeled them Columbia Valley. We tried in vain as the
Yakima Valley Wine Growers to get them to recognize the AVA and put it on their
labels. They never did. Maybe for good reason. They quit buying red grapes from
the Yakima Valley a few years back. Seems the wines from Wahluke and Horse
Heaven Hills were superior.
The Yakima Valley is an
incredibly diverse AVA with soils ranging from deep alluvial bottom lands (90%
of the AVA) where grapes cannot be grown to rocky shallow soils (ancient
cobbles) of the Ellensburg Formation. The climate ranges from barely region I
in the colder areas to a low Region IV in the warmer areas. This renders the
AVA on a label totally meaningless.
I think the Yakima Valley AVA
got a bad rap in the early days being the first AVA in the state. Honestly a
lot of the wines were poorly made back then. Ste Michelle came along with
professional quality wines under the Columbia Valley AVA. Walla Walla had some
talented wine makers using the Walla Walla AVA and then Red Mountain came along
with good wines and the Yakima Valley faded into ‘not very good’. A Seattle
wine writer once wrote, “The wine gets better the further east you go.”
Then there is the reputation
of Yakima (not in the AVA) for being a gang-bang city, but we don’t want to go
there. I consider it as safe as, well maybe safer than, downtown Seattle.
I can name five well-known wineries
investing heavily in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, but are ashamed to market their
wines labeled with the AVA. Their wines are labeled under the generic Yakima
Valley AVA.
So what is it about
rattlesnakes that bothers you? Every place in eastern Washington less than 4000
feet elevation is rattlesnake country. If you are looking for rattlesnakes,
don’t bother looking in the AVA. They are few and far between. Try anywhere
along the Columbia River.
The Rattlesnake Hills AVA was
carved out of the Yakima Valley for the reason of defining an area similar to
the Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla in terms of heat units (growing degree
days). It is recognized for its ability to produce high quality Bordeaux-style
red wines. The Yakima Valley is known for somewhat vegetative reds in many
years.
There is even a prestigious
wine from California from the Rattlesnake Hill Vineyard. It got a 96 in the
Spectator and sells for $110 a bottle. The name is catchy and it sells – much
better than Yakima.
Maryhill Winery is one that
uses Rattlesnake Hills on award winning wines. They currently have three
releases from the Rattlesnake Hills.
The marketing power is there
should you plan to use it. If you are not going to use Rattlesnake Hills, you
would be better off with the more generic Columbia Valley and thereby drop any
negative connotations associated with Yakima.
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